HLB Realty, Inc.
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We Process Residential Loans over 50 states of America.
We Process Commercial Loans over 21 states of America.
Toll Free: 1-888-HLB-CALI (452-2254)

Our Mission

  • HLB Professionals look for ways to                     Other agents won't
    maximize the savings and minimize
    the costs/fees.
  • HLB Professionals help clients plan                    Other agents do not offer direct/guided info.
    for future based on the understanding
    of the clients' unique situations
  • HLB Professionals help clients reach for their       Other agents do not ask questions about goals
    goals based on their understanding and the
    planning put in place
  • HLB Professionals ask lots of questions              Other agents only ask the required questions
    to understand the clients' unique situations
    as best as they can
     

Basics of Distressed Sale, Short Sale, Foreclosure and REO's 
Distressed Sale:
The owners know that if they don't sell their home soon, or at top dollars, what they will end up with after close of escrow (after their home is sold) and the cost of selling, may leave them with little or nothing.
For example, suppose they bought a house for $600,000 with two loans, one for 80% or $480,000 and one for 10% or $60,000, with the remaining $60,000 coming from their savings as a down payment. Now they think the home is still worth $600,000 but their cost to sell (commissions, title insurance, etc . . .) is 7% or $42,000. If their home in fact sells for $600,000, substracting the $42,000 it cost to sell, leaves them with $558,000, from which, once they pay the lender $540,000 for their two loans, they walk away with $18,000 cash.

But what if the market is declining at 2% a month (or $12,000) and they price at $600,000 and don't sell for 30 days, so they lower the price to $588,000. But since the market is declining they are still priced above market value, so another 30 days goes by, they still don't sell, so they lower the price to $576,000. This is called chasing the falling market. If they had priced at $588,000 in the beginning they would have been more likely to sell, and now they wish they had priced there or even lower, because the days of getting those values are gone. In a falling market like this, the rule of thumb is price 5% below the most recent comparable sale. So in this scenario they would have priced at $570,000 and very likely sold in 30 days. Unfortunately, too often what happens is seller says "we must sell our home for no less than $X,xxx otherwise we will not get enough money back out . . . but what they need has ABSOLUTELY nothing to do with what the market will bear . . . so they stick their head in the sand and hold fast to "what they need," meanwhile the market falls further and further away. That has happened to MANY sellers in the past couple years. Shame on their Realtors for not having the courage to give them the "bad news" right upfront. If their Realtor did, and the sellers didn't listen . . . it's time to face the music.

 

Short Sale:

The owners owe more than the market value of their property. After close of escrow, they will have to bring money to pay the lender and/or the Realtor and/or the title and & escrow company.

For example, let's go back to the scenario above. We dropped to $576,000 but if the home sold for that amount with a 7% cost of sale or $40,320 the sellers would get $576,000-$40,320=$535,680 . . . Wait a minute the outstanding loans are $540,000 the sellers are $4,320 short! Therefore there would typically only be one choice, bring that cash from savings to the closing to pay the lender. The lender forgives their debt and their credit remains spotless. But what if the sellers don't have $4,320? Or what if instead of being that amount short, they are $40,000 short and don't have that amount of savings? There are only choices, default on your debt and let your home go into forclosure, the worst hit the person's credit rating can possibly have . . . or convince the bank that in fact you don't have the savings, that yours' is a true hardship case, and that it's better for the lender to lose $4,000 or $40,000 than completely walk away from your obligation to pay the lender. The lender is certainly NOT going to forgive a portion of your debt if you have $100,000 in a 401K or other investments.

 

Foreclosure:
This only happens when the sellers/borrowers stop making payment on their mortgage for 90 days. At that point most lenders will send a "Notice of Default," also at that point the borrower's credit has dropped into the 500's making it all but impossible to refinance or get a new home loan through conventional sources. In most cases, 90 more days after Notice of Default (total 180 days) the lender can send a "Notice of Trustee Sale" which announces the date on which they will be selling the home at auction, typically within 2 weeks of the notice. In most counties those bidding at the auction must have cashiers checks for their exact winning bid amount to purchase the property, they bid without being able to inspect the inside of the property, and they are at risk for any other tax, contractor, or other liens against the property . . . if there was ever a case of "buyer beware" this is it. The original "owners" are borrowers in default who will most often be evicted by the party buying the home at auction. But often homes don't sell at these auctions because those biddings are not willing to pay what lender wants. That brings us to our final scenario . . .

 

REO's (Bank, Real Estate Owned):
Let's go back to the Distressed Sale scenario above. Let's say the sellers keep chasing the market down and let's say that after 3 months they realize they are going to have to bring $40,000 to closing if they sell their home. They don't have that much money, so they apply to the lender for a short sale based upon hardship, they are granted it, but because they had an adjustable rate mortgage they can no longer afford the payments, after a couple months of trying to pay while trying to sell their home, they give up on making payments . . . unfortunately the house never sells, so 180 days later they receive a Notice of Trustee Sale, 2 weeks later it goes to auction, no one buys it . . . it is now the bank's property, the original owners are evicted . . . and the bank hires a Realtor to sell the home, typically as is. Most often the banks look at every penny at this point as just increasing a loss, so they turn off the power, the water, etc . . . the lawn turns brown, toilets start looking funky, etc . . . The bank appoints a clerical worker to oversee one more in the 1000's of properties in their inventory of homes they now have cumulatively lost millions on, and now own. By the way, the money the bank lent for the mortgage to the original home buyers/owners is a debt they (the lender) must repay at some point to the depositors who trusted them to hold their cash and eventually return it in full plus interest.

(source: Carson)

 

8 Things Should Be Considered Before Buying A Bank-Owned Home.

Once a property is fully foreclosed by a bank or lender and listed for sale, it is commonly referred to as a REO (Real Estate Owned) listing. Most bank-owned properties are listed with local real estate agents. Good buys are available. They require research, preparation, patience and persistence. Buying a bank-owned home isn't easy and it's not without risk. The list below should be useful if you decide to take advantage of today's unique REO buying opportunities:

1>
Choose a real estate agent who is familiar with REO practices to help you navigate the process, confirm property values and negociate terms.
2>
Get pre-approved by a qualified lender. Many banks won't even consider your offer unless you have written lender approval or proof of funds.
3>
Buyer beware: Most bank-owned homes are exempt from typical seller disclosures and are sold "as is." Lenders will allow you to get all the inspections you want (at your expense) although often refusing to pay for repairs or upgrades. It never hurts to ask and an experienced agent can save you a bundle by recommending reputable inspectors and negotiating terms with the bank. If substantial work needs to be done, have a licensed contractor take a look before putting an offer or have your agent negociate an inspection contingency.
4>
Making an offer: Your agent should find out if there are any existing inspection reports on file, what work if any the bank will agree to and if there is a special purchase agreement form required by the bank. (Many have their own forms and will not respond to offers written on traditional forms.)
5>
Pricing your offer: Most REO properties are priced to sell and will likely sell within 15% of the list price. Better properties may command a bidding war, selling for more than asking price. If you lowball your offer, don't be surprised if the bank doesn't respond at all
6>
Once you know what you know and can afford, be prepared to write several offers before you get one accepted. Asset management companies, a third party hired by lenders to liquidate foreclosed properties, can be overwhelmed and routinely take longer than expected to respond. Unlike traditional sellers, lenders do not review files or consider offers on weekends and holidays.
7>
Financing: For qualified buyers and investors, exploring financing options with the REO lender may produce better than market interest rate, reduced down payment amount or other financially favorable outcome. (A prequalification letter from an outside lender is still required to get the bargaining table)
8>
The lender is in the driver's seat: REO sales are void of emotion for the seller. They do not have to make sense to anyone but the bank. They make their own rules. Together with your agent, if you understand this basic principle, you might just be a good candidate to buy a bank-owned home.


Should You Retire at 55? 62?70?

Someday, you'll leave your full time job either to explore new part-time opportunities or stop working completely. When? That's not an easy question to answer. Consider these three milestones before you decide:

Age 55: If you have a traditional pension plan at work, you generally may receive a reduced pension benefit starting as early as age 55 once you separate from service with that employer. Also if you leave your job and are at least 55, you may take withdrawals from qualified retirement plans, such as 401(k) plans, without incurring the 10 percent early withdrawal penalty. (That penalty normally applies before age 591/2, but this is one of the exceptions to that rule.) The distributions are taxable as ordinary income. Note: Medicare doesn't start until age 65 so you may need to purchase health coverage on your own in the meantime.
Age 62: You may begin to collect Social Security retirement benefits at this age. However, your monthly benefit will be permanently reduced if you start collecting before your full retirement age (between 65 and 67). The reduction ranges from 20 percent to 30 percent, depending on when you were born and when you start collecting.
Age 70: You might want to choose a later retirement date if you are concerned about outliving your assets. If you continue to work and delay collecting Social Security benefits until after your full retirement age, you may increase the monthly benefit amount you ultimately receive. Until you reach age 70, you may earn credits toward a larger benefit for each month you postpone retirement.

Work and Get Social Security
Even if you aren't ready to retire, you might be able to get a check from Social Security. And it helps to act in January.
Social Security's "earning test" dissuades some people who have reached 62 from filing for benefits. If you claim benefits before full retirement age - and if you're still working - Social Security deducts $1 in benefits for each $2 you earn above an annual limit. In 2008, the limit is $13,560. (The duductions are reduced in the year you reach full retirement age and end once you hit that mark.)

That said, it's still possible to get benefits, even though you're working. What's more - and what many people don't realize - is that, once you reach full retirement age, Social Security recalculates (read: increases) your benefit to give you credit for deductions tied to the earnings test.

Steve Potter, a retired public affairs specialist for Social Security, shows how this can work - and why January is important:
Let's say you turn 63 next month and expect to earn $33,560 in 2008. Also, Social Security tells you that, based on your earnings, your monthly benefits will total $1,000 ($12,000/year) at 63 - or $1,250 at 66 (your full retirement age). You decide to file at 63. Social Security first substracts $13,560 (the earning limit in 2008) from your expected income: $33,560 minus $13,560 equals $20,000. That figure is divided by two (again, $1 in benefits is deducted for each $2 above the limit.) The result - $10,000 - is the amount in 2008 that Social Security will withhold from your benefits.

The good news: Even though $10,000 is deducted from the $12,000 you were scheduled to receive in 2008, you still end up with $2,000 in your pocket - money you wouldn't have seen if you hadn't filed for Social Security. (Ideally, continuing the math at age 64 and 65 would yield $6,000 in all.) Anh when you reach full retirement age (66), Social Security will increase your monthly benefits (to $1,208, in this case, from $1,000) to help compensate for the deductions.

The catch: Uncle Sam gets paid first. In our example, Social Security would withhold benefits from January through October ($1,000 times 10 equals $10,000) and send you $1,000 in both November and December. But . . if you wait until, say, April to claim your benefits - instead of January - that leaves you with only nine potential Social Security checks for the year (April through December) totaling $9,000. Because $10,000 needs to be withheld, you end up with nothing (zero dinero)
(source: Glenn Ruffenach)

Can The Taxpayer Deduct Home-Office Expenses?
<1> Is the office used exclusively for business?(*)
NO  - No home-office deduction allowed
YES - Go to <2>
<2>
Is the office used regularly for business?
NO  - No home-office deduction allowed
YES - Go to <3>
<3> Is the taxpayer an employee?
NO  - Go to <4>
YES - Go to <5>
<4>
Does the taxpayer meet clients in the office in the normal course of business?
NO  - Go to <6>
YES - Home-office deduction allowed

<5> Is the office for the employer's convenience?
NO  - No home-office deduction allowed
YES - Go to <4>
<6>
Is the office in a separate structure?
NO  - Go to <7>
YES - Home-office deduction allowed

<7> Is the office the principal place of business?(**)
NO  - No home-office deduction allowed
YES - Home-office deduction allowed

Note: Home office refers to any business use of the home.
(*)  Exceptions apply for storage of inventory and day-care providers
(**) Each trade or business in which the taxpayer is engaged may have a principal place of business



Tel:            (408) 270-1945
Fax:
          
(408) 270-1944
Toll Free: 1-888-HLB-CALI (452-2254)
Email:        
info@hlbrealty.com
  

                "We Promise. We Deliver. Your Dream is Our Goal!"


Preview Listings

NORTH VALLEY HOME SHOWN LIKE A MODEL
SAN JOSE, CA
Price: $730,000
Bedrooms: 4
Bathrooms: 3
Sq. ft.: 1934
Lot size: 5662




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HLB Realty, Inc.
3005 Silver Creek Rd, Ste 194
San Jose, CA 95121

408-270-1945
408-398-5573
F: 408-270-1944

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